Use rosin core solder, and I prefer tin lead for the low melting point, although this is difficult to buy in Europe. Solder can be removed by soaking it into an old stripped wire dipped in tin flux like Oatey #5. (the power supply and power amp may be 35-50 VDC, and the input to the power transformer will be line voltage AC). Use safety glasses when unsoldering, solder splashes, and measure voltages at under 25 before touching any metal. has the hours life in the selector table, other distributors you have to download the. Buy caps rated over 2000 hours life if you don't want to do it again in a year. Change one or two at a time, so if you make the organ worse instead of better, you can back up without having to discover where the problem is. The ones most likely to cause major problems are the big ones in the power supply and the power amplifier. Buy fresh caps from a distributor, as they deteriorate on the shelf from the oxygen in the air. Caps installed after 1985 only have a one digit year. The manufacture date is YYWW where YY is 19year. They come in whole microfarads, typically bigger than 10 mf by 1977. The good news is that hammonds don't have as many as other brands.Įlectrolytic capcitors are the capacitors with the plus on one end or a minus on the other lead. Any electrolytic capacitors over twenty years old need changing. That should be fairly easy, without a schematic or a scope.
